LONDON — Rules, this city’s oldest restaurant, sits in the center of the West End: a discreet dining spot and a British institution dating to 1798. Its décor is eccentrically English: oak panels, frilled lampshades, walls dotted with political cartoons and animal horns. The doormen wear fur collars and top hats. Waiters swish silver sweepers over the crisp white tablecloths.
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